Blog » Chablis
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Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are among the latest producers you should know about in Chablis. With guidance from family and neighbors, including Vincent Dauvissat, the wines from this young domaine are already in Chablis' lead pack. The wines are rich in fruit, yet they're still founded on a Chablisienne core of bright minerality––the kind of white that appeals to the broadest net of palates imaginable.Highlights include Les Bas de Chapelot, located at the foot of Premier Cru Montée de Tonnere, famed for its ideal southern exposure and Grand Cru-like dramatics. It has a deep, saturating presence, an intense grip, and layers of citrus and white orchard fruits unfolding throughout the long finish.These wines came onto our radar three years ago and continue to wow us. The 2021 edition brings a verve and extra dimension of salinity that is so welcome after being preceded by a flurry of warm and dry vintages.Eleni and Edouard met while working harvest in New Zealand. In 2012, Edouard’s family gave the newlyweds their own five hectares of vines to tend to as they saw fit. They sold off the fruit for the first several years while tailoring the vineyard, then produced their first vintages in a family member’s garage. Formerly, Eleni worked as Vincent Dauvissat’s assistant winemaker, where she adopted much of his farming techniques, and Edouard apprenticed in Pouilly-Fuissé. This was an up-and-coming domaine, but now, after a few vintages, it's clear Vocoret is elite and will always be among the first Chablis names we reference.
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It's overwhelmingly agreed that Raveneau and Dauvissat represent the most crowning achievements in Chablis, but Patrick Piuze is a king-in-waiting. Piuze is a wizard at working with stainless steel and oak to craft Chardonnay from Chablis' fossilized ancient sea bed that delivers the grandeur expected from these top vineyards. Like Raveneau and Dauvissat, it's the regal structure, seamless contours, and definitive cut married to this breadth that places Piuze in elite company.
Wine critic William Kelley on the vintage:
"2020 is another excellent vintage at this address, and even if the two years were very different on paper, it might be compared to a more extroverted, open-knit version of the superb 2017 vintage at this address... The resulting wines are elegantly textural but incisive, clearly differentiated by site. This is also the best address to explore the village-level Chablis AOC, as Piuze produces a number of cuvées and lieu-dit bottlings designed to highlight the diversity that this large appellation encompasses."