In the hills above Dijon, you can find one of Burgundy's greatest inception stories. It is a fresh departure from a domaine's normal evolution, but the wines in bottle are the most thrilling element from Marc Soyard. In a short time, Domaine de la Cras has gone from obscure to having a cult following.

A little over a decade ago, the city of Dijon purchased a vineyard just outside its limits, and they essentially held a casting call to find a winemaker for the property. The criteria were: The winemaker must be young, have no family vineyard holdings, farm organically, and open the domaine for educational tours. Rent for the land would be paid to the city in 2,000 bottles. Marc Soyard, originally from nearby Jura, was chosen.

Soyard does not come from a family of vignerons but previously worked for Vosne-Romanée's esteemed Domaine Bizot, known for its rigorous vineyard work, minuscule sulfur regimen, and whole-cluster fermentation. Soyard's Pinot Noirs pulled me in for their super crunchy and unadulterated bright, red berry fruit. The aromas are intoxicating even before tasting, and whole-cluster fermentation gives these wines a lifted spice and floral character that just floored me.

His Chardonnay's offer a totally unique take on white Burgundy, coming from this long-overlooked terroir––seamless and classic.

"Cras" Rouge & Blanc are the domaine's top wines from the oldest vines on the steepest portion of En Bessy.

Coteaux de Dijon Rouge & Blanc comes from 30-plus-year-old vines planted lower on the slope, with the rouge seeing 30% whole clusters being included for fermentation in wooden tanks without any sulfur additions.

Tercet is Soyard's lone Gamay––an upfront fruity style with imperceptible tannins.

Shop Domaine de la Cras Wines