I'm often asked which Burgundy domaines should be on the radar for their classic character and no frills personality. The name atop that list, embodying both, is Philippe & Henri Jouan of Morey-Saint-Denis. Their greatest wine from their home village is the Premier Cru Clos Sorbé. The late, great Jacky Truchot once made this vineyard legendary, with bottles now fetching upwards of $2,000. When he retired (sort of) in 2005, he sold all his vineyards—except for Clos Sorbé, as he continued producing a tiny amount from a backyard site he cherished.

Today, Jouan carries the torch, crafting wines of incredible finesse with old-school sensibilities. And unlike Truchot’s now-mythic bottling, entry into this piece of Burgundy history is under $200.

Morey is often defined by what it isn't—neither Gevrey-Chambertin to the north nor Chambolle-Musigny to the south. Its wines trade Chambolle’s red cherry for darker berries, layered with forest floor and brown and rust-tinged earthy notes. And, unlike Gevrey’s muscular structure, Morey retains a grace and lift that always brings me back to a more Chambolle ethos of refinement.

Clos Sorbé centers around the same dark cherry fruit profile, but adding notes of orange rind, cocoa, and smoked game. All wrapped up with great acidity, fine-grained tannin, and unmistakable Premier Cru length and drive. While very structured in its extreme youth, with a few years in bottle, like today's 2020, these expressions are in full blossom.

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