There's no better introduction to Sicily's Vittoria than the dream project started by Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano (COS) in 1980. These groundbreakers put the once-obscure Frappato and Nero d'Avola on the world map, and their orange wines (Pithos and Rami) are benchmarks for Italy and ideal introductions to this wildly popular skin-macerated category.

Driving from Mt. Etna to Vittoria reminded me just how varied Sicily's landscape and terroir were. Temperatures rose, and the climate turned arid. It was hard to believe the place I was heading was beloved for the freshness and clarity of its wines. 

The key? There's a constant breeze going through the Hyblaean mountains, and the vines here are on red clay and sand over a deep bedrock of limestone. The wind helps moderate the inland temperatures, and the red sand cools immediately after sunset. The limestone is responsible for low pH levels in the wine, giving it high acidity and nervy minerality.

I visited Giusto Occhipinti just as they were bottling a new vintage. The wines we tasted were fermented in cement and aged in large Slavonian oak casks, similar to those used for traditional Barolo and Brunello. This technique ensures the wines accentuate crisp, refreshing notes that make them a joy to drink. The most complex wines of COS are undoubtedly the Cerasuolo's––a classic combination of Nero d'Avola and Frappato that screams to me of Burgundy more so than Barolo.

Rami Bianco A skin-macerated "orange" wine from equal portions of white varieties Grillo and Insolia planted on limestone and silica. Macerated on skins for 5-7 days, and aged in concrete vats for 8 months. 

Pithos Bianco An orange wine from the white variety Grecanico, planted in subalpine sand at 230 meters in elevation. Native ferment in amphorae with the skins macerating for over one month. Aged for 7 months in concrete and 3 months in bottle. Note: Pithos is the Greek word for amphora.

Nero di Lupo 100% Nero D'Avola from estate vineyards in Vittoria––planted in subalpine sand at 300 meters in elevation. Fermented spontaneously with the skins in concrete. Aged for 7 months in concrete and 3 months in bottle. Syrah is a classic comparison, but Nero is not quite as darkly-pitched or as savory.

Frappato from estate vineyards in Vittoria; planted in subalpine sand at 300 meters in elevation. Fermented spontaneously with the skins in concrete. Aged for 9 months in concrete and 3 months in bottle. Lighter in color and less tannic than Nero d'Avola. Pinot Noir is a classic comparison.

Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 60% Nero d'Avola and 40% Frappato planted on sand, limestone, and silica. Aged in large Slavonian botti for one year, then one year in concrete.

Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico della Bastonaca 60% Nero d'Avola and 40% Frappato from the Bastonaca vineyard. Soil is very sandy with clay and oxidized iron. The most complex and age-worthy of today's lineup.

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