As Burgundy forms the backbone of our selections, it’s no surprise that the #1 question I’m asked is about under-the-radar, younger producers making serious waves. Few names rise to the top of my recommendations quite like Thomas Bouley of Volnay’s Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley. And when it comes to one of the Côte de Beaune's most revered vineyards, Clos des Chênes, Bouley’s rendition is always my first choice.

 

In October 2019, after a tasting with Thomas, I found myself at dinner with a a Côte de Nuits producer and collectors. When the topic of favorite under-the-radar names arose, I mentioned where I had just been, and the entire table enthusiastically agreed. Everyone present had been fortunate enough to experience the deeply concentrated and effortlessly elegant Pinot Noirs crafted by Thomas Bouley. Volnay’s best vineyards, like Clos des Chênes, are the very definition of the “Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove,” and Thomas is one of the few stewards capable of delivering on that promise.

Clos des Chênes comes from just a 0.43-hectare parcel of vines planted in 1951 and 1971 near the vineyard's upper portion. Grapes are mostly de-stemmed, fermentation takes place in concrete, and élevage is in 20% new French oak barrels. 

Thomas joined the domaine in 2002 to work alongside his father, and under his influence, Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley has steadily ascended into the upper echelon of Côte de Beaune producers. So, why does Bouley stand out in a region teeming with young talent? His wines achieve a rare harmony—melding concentrated, sappy fruit with an impeccable touch of oak. That marriage of precision and depth made an instant impression on me during my first tasting, and the fireworks haven’t stopped since.